To live adventure

Hanging out with Mike the owner of a marina in Madison, Indiana (and our cross-border support) and Libby, the owner of the Broadway hotel (Indiana's oldest inn & tavern) I went brain dead--unable to describe where we had been the day before ( Carrolton, Ky). Now, slightly more rested, it is still a struggle to think what has happened within the span of 3 days, 60+miles, a thousand moments.

Rivercrest (mike's) Marina (mile 559)

Madison, Indiana (mile 557-9)

Libby + Mimi @ the Broadway Hotel

421 Bridge between Kentucky and Indiana
(mile 557+)

Jennifer @ the Riverboat Inn

It is fitting that when kayaking with Mimi this past week that I read the following quote that is now burned in my memory:

"The first and last days of a thousand day walk are no different. The beginning is the end and the end is the beginning. Your only aim is to achieve your initial purpose, then you can enjoy what you've done. There is no backing out. When you have finished what you've set out to do then you have created something of value."
--From the Marathon Monks of Mt. Hiei

Time flattens. I am so involved in various aspects of the swim that I find fewer moments to step back at a distance. As my role changes, so does my perspective.

The last 100 miles have been extremely diverse. From a kayak through the widest stretch of the river to a narrow channel with .7 negative current (holding back the tears!), locking through a dam (lockmaster keith is my new buddy), 'tail-gating' with a bunch of National writing project teachers to a take out point (that changed 2+ times ), rushing hurriedly on the back of a golf cart, being towed in the jackson by 2 cat fisherman in hurry, surrounded by the Louisville chinese community with a bounty of homemade food, and driving in beautiful open farm country to seek out rocky banks along the river.

It's been strange to experience 'the chase', the slight dysfunction that can happen with locating Mimi at the end of the days swim with others. Compound that with fact that you are with 15 teachers, setting up a party in the home of another outgoing Mimi who volunteered her riverfront getaway for the gathering! A few teachers were lost down the winding road to river, Mimi swam 2.5 extra miles and the arrival time changed significantly, but the teachers--who have contemplated WITWIM (where in the water is mimi?) for nearly 2 weeks became part of the experience of the swim. They observed, wrote and read beautiful quotes and poetry--words of strength and support so eloquent that I prayed they would still feel the same once experiencing the sweat, grime and unpredictability that is as much a part of the swim as is the importance of thought.

Writing Marathon

Jean, NWP Summer Institute leader

NWP @ Mimi's dock (mile 544.5)

Mimi's grandson, Patrick
(she had been inspired to contact Mimi because she and her grandson had been planning to swim across the river sometime this summer)

Back to a lone wolf in a park. An opportunity to meet the public, chat, listen to the stories of gigantic catfish, turtles, mink trapping (eeeeeek!) and silly barges getting caught on the sand bar around the bend.

Hanging out with James Stewart, 71, Louisville native who was the best narrator of the water, with a slight preference for the more sizable and faster boats.

James Stewart, Cox's Park, Louisville, KY (mile 600!)

Coolest boots ever--rainbow stitching!

At Cox's Park, I experienced deja vu as I introduced our two Louisville godfathers to one anther--Mike, who had been our support from Madison to Louisville and Jack, a present from Santa Schulte. It was, I felt, a passing of the torch. The torch in this case being a package of logistical duties and two waterlogged ladies. It's hard to say which had the shorter end of the stick--Mike drove back and forth from Louisville to Madison and saved the day by rescuing mimi's cell. Jack enjoyed one of the trickiest take outs while I was kayaking--going to a park that was fenced off, finding a remote road off the main road, muddied feet and two sluggish zombies-- always fun when portaging a kayak up a tiny path into his clean minivan. Yet, both men smiled, calm and accepting in the circumstances--cannot say that I have been the same when encountering similar situations...and that I have!

Thanks, Jack!!
Where we stayed in Elizabethtown, Ky (our day off)

On Jeff Mc Ghee's farm, the last take-out for the week, I stood on a hill overlooking the river, sweated a little (nothing unique about that) removed from everything, everyone, and experienced a brief moment of distance, calm.

Eugene and Jeff McGhee Farm (~ mile 642)

Things soon changed when I discovered a barrage of missed calls from the kayaker of the day, Rob, a Louisville resident, who believed he had passed the the take out. In a moment of doubt, I questioned whether my lulling sense of calm had meant their passing. I looked out in fear as the little dot in front of me was not coming closer, probably taking far too long to realize that it was an unmoving object, like a branch. Just as I turned around, I saw them approaching downstream--ahhh relief! Rough day on the water, quick sand and misguided communication--adventure.

I sometimes attempt to build logical, linear plot of miles, experiences to help describe the swim to others, yet any of the people who have encountered Mimi and I (a dynamic, but slightly complex duo) would know that our inertia is zig-zag-zigged. To be fluid, in ever-changing circumstances, is to live adventure. Yet, it is challenging, and like this blog, quite random.

Fernbank Park outside of Cincinatti (~mile 484)

Captains Quarters, Louisville, KY (mile 596)

From the Water

As I write from a library in Warsaw, Ky (mile 527-8) I am trying to jog my memory of the last few days. It's been a whirlwind of splendor--from the arrival of Kay Campbell, Mimi's friend and writer from the Huntsville Times (Faith & Values Editor--a title that doesn't even begin to describe the voluminous personality and relaxed demeanor this woman possesses!) to our anticipated meeting and stay with 'Santa' Schulte who not only opened his home to us in Cincinnati, but has been the voice of reason, Ohio River data and more along the journey.

Kay at Four Seasons Marina (mile 464)

before

after

had to include this photo courtesy of santa schulte--river sweep bag was a great temporary raincoat during the last of the thunderstorm

Beers with Henry, the president/founder of Cincy paddlers, infinite cheers for the all-volunteer Boone County rescue team who escorted us and even stowed the kayak through Cincinnati and beyond! On Saturday, I was able to ride on a little steam boat that's 100 years old called 'miss fortune' owned by Tom Schiffer, a gun toting Kentucky man (and avid River enthusiast!)--He actually heard of the swim early on through steamboats.com through Jerry Hay (the man who wrote the guidebook that we use daily!--random!) He and his wife Carol were so kind to put us up and care for us.

Tom Schiffer

the Miss Fortune steam boat

South of Fern Bank park, oh (mile 483)
kay and mimi with boone county rescue + santa schulte (fittingly, in red)

Saturday was a strange day on the water--2 boats and 2 kayaks, not to mention the weekend river traffic. Definitely, an odd entourage!

mimi's strong arm surrounded
passing Aurora, In (~mile 497)

chill jim, comes back for round two

275 hwy bridge between Kentucky and Indiana (~491.5)

On the river, I jumped ship to Boone County and got to hear the stories of the rescue team (1st in the nation!!) and how Dale Apple, a man with vision, began the organization. Each member's enthusiasm was infectious and as I chowed on their delicious trail mix, they taught me tricks on how to read current. Good thing, because unexpectedly 3 miles shy of the days take out, kayakers Jim and Kay had to leave (their vehicle was short of the take out).



Oh, ****! the men had asked me if I needed a restroom, and I had thought--if I stand up, I'm fine until we reach the landing. Even the idea of sitting, through my bladder into a panic, and the rescue team (known for sophisticated recovery diving) rushed me to a nearby brushy shore. I was so embarrassed! I hopped off the boat into the mud, thickly stuck halfway up my calves and once freed and running for a little privacy-- all I could see was a group of guys on sea-doos heading straight to the shore where I was squatting. I was mortified--jumping for cover further in the bushes. After a little adventure, I was on the kayak and helping escort Mimi to mile 504--more than half way of the swim (which was 490.5).

From Dale's perspectives..



Off the water, Mimi is stumped by an interview question with a public radio station reporter from Kentucky--which is not a bad thing!

Sunday was my second day as a support kayaker, but first time alone. There was current, although it was not as much as in the past weeks, but it was fantastic to be on the river again for a second day in a row--applying my tracking skills to a new terrain. I would keep Mimi in my peripheral vision, but zone out and relax...maybe some of that was delirium, as it was another scorcher. As we wove through the bendy path, boaters would respectfully watch and people would yell to shore--'we're having a picnic, come by later!

I was too afraid to take Tree's camera on the water Sunday, but here's a series of chill Jim and Mimi's strong arm from Saturday:




Amazingly, Tom, a brother of our friendly Ranger upstream at Fern Bank Park (a take out 2 days prior) and his lovely wife Lynn found us on the river and would intermittently check with me--Does she need any food? Does she need a shower? Anything, let us know! Little did we realize just how much we would rely on the kindness of strangers that day--and to be honest, always. When it became apparent just how far Mimi would have to go up a creek to take out--I stopped her and said, you should just get on a boat--and...there was a boat.

A minute later we and our little blue kayak were on a boat full of people. Within seconds, Mimi was sitting in a circle with kids talking about sponge bob and singing songs. From there, Tom and Lynn were passed the torch, and we were soon riding on their zippy luxurious watercraft all the way back to our car in Rising Sun, where we then stayed with Bill and Kathy--another couple we had met at the take out the day before who lived in a waterfront home and used to run a B&B with a spare apartment. We ate their friendship bread and slept in a relaxing cocoon for 2 nights! Fittingly, our room read: "Enter a stranger, Leave a friend". How true this has been everyday along the river, and continues to be.

the rising sun 'retreat' at bill and kathy's (~506.3 mile)

tomas and kayak

Nature and Nurturers

After an interesting week full of unpredictable weather, passed out bodies and mosquito bitten ankles, it was so refreshing to come to the town of Maysville, Ky and meet the kind ladies who operate the French Quarter Inn in the historic downtown area. Met a gallery owner who made the most amazing jewelry based off of barn quilts, something I've never encountered. It was fascinating-- taking a historical and folk art such as quilting and painting a almost coat of arms-like quilt pattern on a barn. These quilt barn trails I guess are something that are popping up around the nation.

While deciding what to do Monday, after helping Mimi and kayaker Jim launch at the Moyer's winery I got my internet fix at McDonalds, observing one of my new favorite pastimes--the retired men's morning coffee club. I couldn't help but overhear them talk about the swim, but not wanting to let on I was a snoop I didn't say anything. After getting lost in google for a while, I realized there were only two men left. I braved up and talked to them. I told them that my tracker was on that day and if we left soon, we could catch Mimi swim by Maysville. Not 10 minutes under the bridge, and Mimi and kayaker Jim were in sight. One man kept saying how he wished he had his camera (he had called his wife, but knew she would miss her because she had to put her lipstick on!)...pretty hilarious. They told me, go to Augusta, and so I went!

Maysville, KY (408.5 mile)

Mimi had the most amazing swim with her support for the day, Jim of the Cincy paddlers who have been supporting us this week as we edge toward Cincinnati, OH. Jim, Mimi said was so caring, relaxed and even had brain teasers ready for her at the breaks. With super kayaker Jim, a 3 mile/hr current, my tracking brain suggested that she'd go past Dover (mile 419.5) and onto Augusta, Ky (mile 246-7). Within a half hour of prediction, Mimi and Jim arrived at the Augusta boat ramp at 4:30pm after going 26 miles! Amazing!

We were so excited to meet the funny bunch, Danny and John, pals and paddlers from the Cincy paddlers. As promised, in their precise, but comical email, was veggie pizza, crisp cold beer and 2 friends prepared for the day ahead. Danny had called the upcoming townships and arranged for us to stay with the Mayor of Dover, KY, Eddie and then the following day, the Mayor of Moscow, Oh, Tim.

Mayor Eddie, Mimi, Danny + John
Dover, Ky (mile 419.5)

On beautiful days, without fear of abduction, I wander into some of the beautiful parks and nature reserves along the Ohio River. Many of the old locks and dams have been converted into city/state maintained properties and parks. Yesterday, I had the opportunity to stop at the old lock house in Chilo, Oh where after a thorough vetting process of the 2 forest workers and a local retired man (dog in tow), I deemed the area fit for stopping. The men there proved more than helpful, unlocking the River museum for me to peruse, directing me to their trails and even delivering my sandals to the Meldahl lock and dam a few miles away (as I carelessly left them in the parking lot).

Danny locks through
Meldahl Dam, OH (mile 436)

After days of off and on rains, Mimi swims in the most drift yet. Getting back into the drift sludge that's accumulated near the damn.
I was an early guest in the home of Mayor Tim and Tracey Suter. I had met Tim briefly at Meldahl Dam, but he was surprised to catch me so soon at Moscow, his hometown. I had already circled the town twice, when he wrangled me in and led me to the home that he and his wife share. No too long after, Mimi and the funny bunch arrived at the town's boat dock and were surrounded by the kind people of the town, eating all of the delicious food Tracey and her friends had prepared. I got to hear about the town's history and many personal stories of tragedy and triumph. After a flood in the late 1990's had devastated the local area, some of the women we met founded the Neville River belles, a group created to raise money to help those impacted--they've since continued raising funds by cook books and other means for other causes.

In the last few days, I've really felt nurtured by all of these people. It was funny, standing in the middle of the mayor's house surrounded by women I'd only met that day and being measured for my wedding dress. I felt like they were all my aunts.

Moscow, Oh (mile 443)

Mayor Tim with friend Steve
Steve's front yard, (mile 446)

On a random note, I've not been completely alone--even on remote banks. I learned early on by the folks maintaining East Liverpool's dock just how 'cute' locals find Canadian geese that never want to leave America. I can spot the geese trails, but it's the bugs that have been difficult to get used to. For the last few weeks the Mayflies have taken over the river. People have said that they really only live 24 hours, mate, and then die. I know I should feel compelled to allow their short existence to be swat free, but the swarms (especially around Meldahl Dam) of mayflies are next level.

chain of mayflies and kayaker john

I swear the ducks in New Richmond, Oh are on steroids. I misidentified one with a red growth on it's head as a turkey.

New Richmond, Oh (mile 449)